Some of them we went back to. A few we quietly stopped recommending. What follows is the version of North Bengal we would give a friend who called and asked where to go, including the parts that are inconvenient.
This is not a list of the prettiest places. It is a guide to choosing between about twenty villages that all look similar in photographs and are not similar at all once you are there.
What people actually mean by “offbeat”
Ten years ago, offbeat in North Bengal meant Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Kurseong. Then it meant Tinchuley and Lepchajagat. Now those have hotels with lifts, and offbeat has moved again, to Sittong and Charkhol and Chatakpur.
The word is close to meaningless as a marketing term. But there is a real thing underneath it, and it is worth naming, because it is what most people are actually asking for when they use the word.
They want a place where the view is not shared with two hundred other people. Where the family running the house eats the same food they serve you. Where the evening is quiet enough that you notice it. And where the road in is bad enough to keep the crowds away but not so bad that you arrive shaken.
That last one is the real trade. Every genuinely quiet village in these hills is quiet because it is hard to reach. The question is never whether you want somewhere offbeat. It is how much discomfort you are willing to accept in exchange, and that answer is different for a couple in their twenties than for a family with a four-year-old and a grandmother.
Most of this guide is about helping you answer that honestly.
Start here: three questions that narrow everything
Before any village names, answer these. They eliminate most of the map and save you from a trip that looks good on Instagram and is miserable in practice.
How long is your last drive?
Everything in these hills is measured from New Jalpaiguri station or Bagdogra airport. From there you are looking at anywhere between one and five hours by car, most of it on hill roads with switchbacks.
Two hours is comfortable. Three is fine for most people. Four and above is a real journey, and if anyone in your group gets car sick, it will define the day. Children under six tend to struggle past the two hour mark. So do most people over seventy.
This single number eliminates more options than anything else.
How high are you going?
Altitude decides your temperature, your view, and how your body feels. Broadly:
Below 3,000 feet you are in the foothills and river valleys. Warm, green, and you can visit year round. Bijanbari sits around 2,500 feet and stays pleasant even when Darjeeling is cold.
Between 4,000 and 6,000 feet is the sweet spot for most travellers. Cool evenings, proper hill scenery, tea gardens, and no altitude problems for anyone. Sittong, Charkhol, Kolakham, Maldiram and Lolegaon all sit in this band.
Above 7,000 feet gets genuinely cold at night from November to February, and the views get spectacular. Chatakpur, Ghoom and Rishop are up here. Wonderful, but bring proper woollens and think twice if you are travelling with an infant.
Above 10,000 feet, which mostly means parts of Sikkim, you should factor in acclimatisation and permits.
Who are you travelling with?
A couple can handle a homestay with a shared bathroom and a one hour walk from where the car stops. A family with small children cannot, or at least will not enjoy it.
Be honest here rather than aspirational. The most common way a North Bengal trip goes wrong is someone booking a place suited to a different kind of traveller than the one they actually are.
Getting there
By train
New Jalpaiguri, always called NJP, is the station everyone uses. From Kolkata the overnight trains are the sensible choice: Darjeeling Mail, Padatik Express, Uttar Banga Express. You board in the evening, you wake up in Siliguri, and you are in the hills by lunch.
Book early. These trains fill up six to eight weeks ahead for December and for the Durga Puja fortnight, and the tatkal scramble is not fun.
By air
Bagdogra is about twelve kilometres from Siliguri and roughly ninety minutes from NJP by road. Flights from Kolkata take a little over an hour. If you are short on time, flying in and training back is a good combination, because the train journey is genuinely pleasant and the flight is just a flight.
The last leg
This is the part people underestimate. From NJP or Bagdogra you need a car, and the drive is not a highway drive. Hill roads, blind corners, and a pace of roughly twenty five kilometres an hour once you start climbing.
A shared jeep is cheapest and leaves when it fills. A reserved car is far more comfortable and is what we arrange for most people. If you are three or more, the cost difference per head is small enough that it stops being a real decision.
One practical note. If you are arriving on an evening flight or a delayed train, consider a night in Siliguri rather than starting a four hour hill drive after dark. Hill roads at night with a tired driver is the one genuinely risky part of a North Bengal trip.
When to go, month by month
October and November. The best months, and everybody knows it. The monsoon has washed the air clean, Kanchenjunga is out most mornings, and the temperature is perfect. Book six to eight weeks ahead, especially around Puja and Diwali. Rates are at their highest.
December and January. Cold and beautiful. Nights drop to low single digits, and higher up it touches freezing. Homestays give extra quilts; heaters are rare and where they exist they cost extra. The upside is the clearest mountain views of the year and near empty villages after the first week of January.
February. Underrated. Still cold at night, days warming up, rhododendrons starting in the higher areas, and rates noticeably lower than December.
March to May. Our second favourite window. Days around eighteen to twenty four degrees, evenings cool, rhododendrons and magnolias in bloom above 5,000 feet. This is the easiest weather of the year for anyone travelling with children or elderly parents.
June to September. Monsoon. Heavy rain, landslide risk on the hill roads, and the possibility of being stuck somewhere an extra day. It is also intensely green, the waterfalls are full, and rates are at their lowest. We do send people in monsoon, but we keep the routes short and we tell them in advance that plans may move.
The villages
This is the main body of the guide. For each place: what it actually is, how high, how far from NJP, who it suits, and where we would put you.
Sittong
The orange village, and the closest genuinely offbeat option to the plains.
Sittong sits at about 5,000 feet, roughly thirty one kilometres from NJP, which makes it comfortably the shortest hill drive on this list. Under two hours from the station. That alone makes it the right answer for a lot of people.
It is known for oranges, which ripen in December and January, and for being spread out along a hillside rather than clustered into a village centre. There is no market, no line of hotels, and very little to do, which is the point. Mornings give you Kanchenjunga on a clear day and a river valley below.
Who it suits. First time visitors to the offbeat hills. Families with young children, because the drive is short. Anyone with limited days who does not want to spend two of them in a car.
Where we would put you. Sittong Homestay from ₹1,450 is the one we send most people to, a proper family run house with the view from the terrace. Sittong Village Retreat is similar in price and slightly more space. If the Kanchenjunga view is the whole reason you are going, Kanchenjunga View Homestay Sittong at ₹1,650 is positioned for exactly that.
Combine it with. Ahaldara and Latpanchar are close, and all three work as a single loop over three nights.
Latpanchar and Ahaldara
Latpanchar is a birding village inside the Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary, and Ahaldara is the sunrise point nearby that gets photographed constantly.
This area was once a cinchona plantation, and the old plantation quarters are still there. It is high enough to be cool, forested enough to be genuinely quiet, and the bird list is serious. Rufous necked hornbills are the headline species and people travel specifically for them.
Who it suits. Birders, obviously. But also anyone who wants forest rather than tea gardens, which is a different feeling entirely.
Where we would put you. Ahaldara Homestay at ₹1,550 is the most viewed hill property we list, which tells you something. Simple, well run, and positioned for the sunrise.
Charkhol
Offbeat Kalimpong, and one of the quietest places we send people.
Charkhol sits in the hills above Kalimpong, in a pine forest, with Kanchenjunga in front of you when the weather allows. There is essentially nothing there. A few houses, the forest, and the view. People either love it immediately or find it too quiet by the second day.
Who it suits. Couples. People who have already done Darjeeling and Kalimpong and want the next thing. Readers and walkers.
Where we would put you. Charkhol Homestay from ₹1,450.
Combine it with. Ramdhura, Icha forest and Samthar are all in the same cluster, which makes a four or five night Kalimpong hills loop straightforward without long daily drives.
Ramdhura and Icha Forest
Ramdhura is a small village on the Kalimpong side with a view over the Teesta and Relli valleys. Icha forest nearby is dense, quiet and good for walking.
The area has become better known over the last few years but is still nothing like Darjeeling in terms of crowds.
Where we would put you. Ramdhura Woods Homestay at ₹1,650 sits in the Icha forest itself, which is the reason to come. Ramdhura Homestay with Kanchenjungha View at ₹1,550 is the choice if the mountain view matters more than the forest.
Samthar
A plateau above Kalimpong at around 8,500 feet, with an enormous open view and very little development.
Samthar is further than it looks on a map and the last stretch of road is rough. That is exactly why it stays quiet. The plateau itself is wide and flat, unusual in these hills, and the sense of space is the thing people remember.
Who it suits. People who want a view and do not mind working for it. Groups, because the open ground suits larger parties.
Where we would put you. Samthar Homestay Kalimpong at ₹1,850. For groups and retreats, Whispering Hill Retreat, Samthar starts at ₹600 and has the space for a gathering.
Kolakham
A village at about 5,250 feet inside the Neora Valley area, close to the Changey waterfall.
Kolakham has become one of the better known offbeat names, which means it is no longer as quiet as it was five years ago. It is still a long way from crowded. The forest around it is genuinely wild, and Neora Valley National Park is one of the last intact stretches of this kind in the region.
Who it suits. Families. Nature lovers. People who want a waterfall walk they can actually do.
Where we would put you. Skylark Valley View Kolakham at ₹1,800 has the valley view the village is known for. Changhey Retreat is the budget option and sits closer to the waterfall. Kolakham Homestay at ₹2,200 is the more comfortable end.
Combine it with. Lava, Lolegaon and Rishop are all within an hour, and the four together make a natural four night circuit.
Lava and Lolegaon
The classic pair, and still worth doing.
Lava sits at around 7,000 feet with a Buddhist monastery and a forest that feels properly ancient. Lolegaon, about twenty five kilometres away, is known for the Heritage Forest and its canopy walk, and for a sunrise view of Kanchenjunga that is among the best accessible ones in the region.
Both have been on the tourist map for a couple of decades, so do not expect to be alone. But the forest around them is real, and in the off season they empty out.
Where we would put you. In Lava, Tea Estate Lava at ₹2,000. In Lolegaon, Lolegaon Valley Retreat at ₹1,750 is the one we send most people to, with Lolegaon Nature Resort from ₹400 as the budget option and Lolegaon Homestay with view of Kanchenjunga at ₹1,850 if the view is the priority.
Rishop
At around 8,500 feet, Rishop gives you one of the most complete Kanchenjunga views on this list, and a short trek to Tiffindara that most reasonably fit people can manage.
It is cold up here from November onwards. The village is small and has become popular enough that new construction is visible, but the view has not changed.
Where we would put you. Blue Hut Rishop at ₹1,350 is the value choice. Sleeping Buddha Rishop at ₹5,500 is at the comfortable end and named for the mountain silhouette you can see from it. Rishop Nature Homestay is the simpler village option.
Tinchuley and Takdah
Two old British era settlements on the same ridge, about an hour and a half from Darjeeling.
Tinchuley is organic farming country with orange orchards and a view down into the Teesta valley. Takdah, just below it, has the colonial bungalows built for tea planters, several of which now take guests. Staying in one of those bungalows is a different experience from a village homestay, and worth doing once.
Who it suits. People who want hills without roughing it. Tinchuley and Takdah both have properties with proper plumbing and decent beds.
Where we would put you. In Tinchuley, Tinchuley Village Homestay at ₹1,500 or Tinchuley Homestay at ₹1,550, and Gumbadara Village Resort at ₹1,650 for the viewpoint. In Takdah, Takdah Heritage Bungalow and Takdah British Royal Bungalow at ₹1,750 are the heritage options, and Takdah Tea Estate Homestay at ₹2,900 puts you in the garden itself.
Peshok and Maldiram
Tea garden country on the road between Darjeeling and Kalimpong, roughly sixty six kilometres from NJP.
Peshok is where you get the view of the Teesta and Rangeet rivers meeting far below, and at night the lights of Kalimpong across the valley. The tea gardens here are working gardens, not showpieces, and you can walk into them.
Where we would put you. Peshok Farm Stay at ₹1,650. Peshok Homestay with Mt. Kanchenjunga View from ₹800 is the value option and has the night view of the valley. Tea Garden Retreat Maldiram at ₹1,850 and 4,500 feet is nearby and quieter still.
Tabakoshi
A small tea garden village near Mirik, on the Rangbhang river, at a comfortable altitude.
Tabakoshi is one of our most asked about properties and we understand why. It is close enough to be easy, quiet enough to feel remote, and the river running past the village gives it a sound that most hill villages do not have.
Where we would put you. Tabakoshi Homestay, Attic Cottages at ₹2,350. The attic rooms are the ones to ask for.
Mirik
The lake town, about forty five kilometres from NJP, and the easiest hill destination on this list to reach.
Mirik is not offbeat and we would not pretend otherwise. Sumendu lake has boats, the road around it has stalls, and on a weekend it is busy. But it is a good first stop or last stop, it works well for families with small children, and the tea gardens just outside town are genuinely lovely.
Where we would put you. Mirik Home Stay at ₹1,650, Mirik Mountain View Homestay at ₹1,550, or Riverside Cottage Mirik from ₹500 if budget is the priority.
Kurseong
The town of the white orchid, at 8,482 feet, on the toy train line.
Kurseong is a proper town rather than a village, which makes it useful. You get shops, a chemist, ATMs and a hospital, and you are still in the hills with tea gardens on every side. For a first hill trip with elderly parents, that combination matters more than people expect.
Where we would put you. Kurseong Eco Village Homestay from ₹500 is the simple village option. Cochrane Place at ₹1,500 is a heritage property with a reputation. Allita Resort at ₹1,500 is the comfortable middle.
Bijanbari
Down in the Little Rangeet river valley below Darjeeling, at around 2,500 feet.
Bijanbari is the answer for a group that cannot agree. It is warm enough in winter for people who hate the cold, it has a river rather than a view, and it is genuinely quiet. In summer it gets hot, so this is a November to February destination more than a May one.
Where we would put you. Bijanbari Riverside Farmstay at ₹1,850, which has a pool and takes pets. Bijanbari Riverside Retreat at ₹1,850 and Bijanbari Homestay Beside River at ₹1,650 are the alternatives.
Chatakpur
A tiny forest village at about 7,000 feet inside Senchal Wildlife Sanctuary, with around ten houses.
Chatakpur is as close to properly remote as we send people without a trek. No shops. Limited electricity at times. Forest all around and Kanchenjunga in front. The village runs on an eco tourism model and the whole place is managed by the community.
Who it suits. People who genuinely want quiet and understand what they are agreeing to. Not a first hill trip, and not for anyone who needs comfort.
Where we would put you. Chatakpur Homestay at ₹3,500.
Darjeeling and Ghoom
We list Darjeeling properties because people ask, and because a night there at the start or end of a hill trip makes sense.
Darjeeling itself is crowded, and in season the traffic on the Mall is its own kind of misery. But the tea gardens below the town are beautiful, the toy train is worth doing once, and Ghoom at 7,407 feet has the monastery and the Batasia loop.
Our honest advice: one night in Darjeeling, two or three in a village. Not the other way around.
Lepchajagat
A pine and oak forest village about nineteen kilometres from Darjeeling, at around 6,900 feet.
Lepchajagat is small enough that the whole place is a handful of properties in a reserve forest. In the morning the mist comes through the trees and then lifts to give you Kanchenjunga. It is close enough to Darjeeling to do a day trip into town and far enough that you cannot hear it.
This was one of the first places to be called offbeat in North Bengal, which means it is now moderately well known. It is still forest, and it is still quiet on a weekday.
Who it suits. Couples. People who want the Darjeeling view without Darjeeling. Anyone travelling in March and April, when the rhododendrons here are worth the trip on their own.
Where we would put you. Lepchajagat Homestay at ₹1,250 is the value option. Lepchajagat Homestay Amidst The Conifers at ₹1,600 sits deeper into the trees.
Dawaipani
A ridge village about an hour and a half from Darjeeling at 6,500 feet, looking across at the Kanchenjunga range with the Rangeet valley below.
Dawaipani is one of those places that stayed quiet because the road in is genuinely poor. The view from the ridge is among the best on this list, and there is nothing to do but look at it, walk, and eat.
Who it suits. People who have been to the hills before and want somewhere with almost no infrastructure. Photographers.
Where we would put you. Dawaipani Retreat at ₹1,850.
Worth asking us first. The last stretch of road and the walk to the property are the things to check before you book this one, particularly with elderly parents or heavy bags.
Tukvar and Mim
Two working tea gardens below Darjeeling, both around thirty minutes from town, at 5,000 to 7,000 feet.
If the idea of a tea garden is the reason you are coming to North Bengal, these are the places to stay in one rather than look at one. Tukvar is one of the oldest gardens in the Darjeeling district. Mim sits lower with a view down the valley.
Mornings here mean walking into the garden while the pluckers are working, which is a better experience than any organised tea tour.
Where we would put you. Tukvar Tea Garden Cottage at ₹1,850, Tukvar Homestay at ₹1,850, or Mim Tea Homestay at ₹1,850.
Into Sikkim: Ravangla, Borong, Rinchenpong
South and West Sikkim start about four hours from NJP and change the character of the trip. Monasteries rather than tea gardens, a different cuisine, and higher passes.
Ravangla sits below Maenam hill with the Buddha Park, and is a good base. Borong nearby is quieter, with hot springs down in the valley. Rinchenpong in West Sikkim has a monastery, a good view, and far fewer visitors than Pelling.
Where we would put you. Borong Silent Valley Resort at ₹2,000. Ravangla Barfung Retreat. Mount Narsing Village Resort from ₹700. In Rinchenpong, Rinchenpong Villa Homestay, Rinchenpong Heritage Farm from ₹500, or Rinchenpong Landscape Hotel at ₹2,000.
Further west, Pelling gives you the closest accessible view of Kanchenjunga anywhere in the region, along with the Pemayangtse monastery and the ruins at Rabdentse. It is busier than Rinchenpong and worth one night rather than three. Pelling Home Stay at ₹1,750 and 6,000 feet, or Pelling Mountain View Retreat at ₹1,750.
Kaluk, between Rinchenpong and Pelling, is quieter than both and has the same mountain view. Kaluk Village Resort at ₹2,500, or Bermiok Red Mud Chalet if you want something genuinely unusual to stay in.
Note on permits. Indian nationals need no permit for South and West Sikkim, but you do need one for North Sikkim and for some high passes. We arrange these. Carry a voter ID or Aadhaar and passport photographs.
The Dooars: Lataguri and the forest belt
Not hills at all, but often combined with them, so it belongs here.
The Dooars is the low forest belt between the plains and the hills, around eighty kilometres from NJP. Gorumara and Jaldapara are the parks, and the draw is wildlife rather than views. Rhino, elephant, bison, and if you are fortunate, leopard.
Safari bookings are limited and go quickly. The parks close during monsoon, mid June to mid September.
Murti, on the river of the same name, is the quieter alternative to Lataguri and closer to the Gorumara gates. Jayanti, further east near Buxa, sits on a dry river bed against the Bhutan hills and is one of the most striking places in the region, though it takes a longer drive.
Where we would put you. In Lataguri, Hotel Dreamland Lataguri from ₹550, Retreat Lataguri from ₹500, or Green Touch Lataguri at ₹2,875 for more comfort. Near Gorumara, Dooars Wildlife Resort at ₹1,750 or Reserve Gorumara from ₹650. On the river at Murti, Murti Forest Resort at ₹1,750 or Murti Dooars Hotel from ₹600. At Jayanti, stays start from ₹450.
Safari booking. Gorumara and Jaldapara safaris are booked through the forest department and the morning slots go first. Tell us your dates when you book the stay and we will try for the same day, but nobody can guarantee a slot.
Putting a trip together
The commonest mistake is trying to see too much. These are hill roads. Two hours on a map is three in reality, and a day spent driving is a day not spent anywhere.
Our rule: no more than two bases in four nights, and no more than three in six.
Three nights, short drives, easy
Sittong for two nights, Ahaldara for one. Total driving from NJP and back, under five hours. Good for a first trip, for families with small children, and for anyone with a Friday to Monday.
Four nights, the Kalimpong hills
Charkhol for two nights, Ramdhura or Samthar for two. One cluster, short transfers, and genuinely quiet throughout. Our most recommended four night trip.
Five nights, forest and view
Kolakham for two, Rishop or Lava for two, Lolegaon for one. Neora Valley, the Changey falls, the Lolegaon canopy walk and a proper Kanchenjunga sunrise.
Five nights, tea gardens
Takdah or Tinchuley for two, Peshok or Maldiram for two, Darjeeling for one at the end. Working gardens, colonial bungalows, and the town when you want it.
Six nights, hills and Dooars
Three nights in a hill village, then two in the Dooars for safaris, then out from NJP. Two very different landscapes in one trip, and the drive between them is downhill and easy.
Six nights into Sikkim
Two nights Kalimpong side, then Ravangla or Borong for three, out via Gangtok. Longer drives, so this suits people who are comfortable in a car.
What a homestay is actually like
Worth setting expectations, because the gap between what people imagine and what they find is where disappointment happens.
The rooms are simple. Clean, with hot water, usually a geyser rather than a running hot system. Beds are firm. Do not expect a hotel mattress.
The food is home cooking and there is a lot of it. Rice, dal, a vegetable, an egg or chicken curry, and often momos or thukpa. Breakfast tends to be eggs, toast and tea. Almost all hill homestays are full board, which means all three meals are included in the rate. You will not go hungry and you will not get a menu.
Meal times are fixed. Dinner is early, often by eight. This surprises city visitors more than anything else.
Heating is rare. Extra quilts are the standard answer to cold. A few properties have room heaters and usually charge extra. If you feel the cold badly, ask before booking rather than after arriving.
The family is present. You are staying in someone’s home. That means conversation, children around, and a dog in most cases. If you want to be left entirely alone, a homestay is the wrong choice and we will tell you so.
Network is patchy. Jio and Airtel work in most villages but not on every trail. Wifi exists in common areas at many properties and is slow. If you need to work, tell us and we will pick accordingly.
Practical things
Money. Carry cash. ATMs exist in Kurseong, Kalimpong, Darjeeling, Mirik and Gangtok, and nowhere else on this list. Many homestays do not take cards, and UPI depends on network.
Cars. A reserved car from NJP to most of these villages runs between ₹3,000 and ₹5,000 one way depending on distance. Shared jeeps are a fraction of that but leave when full and stop often.
What to carry. Layers rather than one heavy coat. Something windproof. Proper woollens between December and February. Walking shoes with grip, which matter more than anything else you pack. A power bank. Any medication you need, because chemists are scarce.
Children. Most homestays are good with children, and families in these villages are used to them. Ask about the ground around the property. Some are on steep slopes with unfenced drops.
Elderly parents. Keep drives under three hours, stay below 6,000 feet, and ask us about the walk from where the car stops to the door. That last one catches people out.
Pets. Some properties take pets and some do not. It is the owner’s decision, not ours. Tell us the breed and size and we will confirm.
The mistakes we see most
Too many places in too few days. Three villages in four nights means you have seen the inside of a car.
Booking in October two weeks ahead. The good properties in peak season are gone six to eight weeks out. If your dates are fixed and the month is October, November or December, book early or accept a compromise.
Assuming offbeat means comfortable. The quietest places are quiet because they are hard to get to and simply built. Both of those are the price of the quiet.
Not asking about the last stretch. A property can be two hours from NJP and still involve a fifteen minute walk uphill with your bags. Always ask.
Going in monsoon without flexibility. June to September is beautiful and cheap and occasionally strands you a day. That is fine if your return is flexible and a problem if it is not.
Common questions
What does it cost? Most hill homestays on this page run between ₹1,350 and ₹2,500 per person per night, and that almost always includes all meals. Budget options start around ₹500 and the comfortable end goes to ₹3,500 and above. Add a car from NJP.
How many nights should I take? Four is the minimum for the journey to be worth it. Six is comfortable. Three works only if you stay close to NJP, which means Sittong, Latpanchar or Mirik.
Which is best for a first visit? Sittong, for the short drive. Or Kolakham if you want forest and do not mind three hours.
When will I see Kanchenjunga? October to December gives the best odds, with clear mornings most days. March and April are also good. In monsoon, do not count on it.
Is it safe for women travelling alone? Yes, and we send solo women travellers regularly. Homestays are family homes, which helps. The usual caution about hill roads after dark applies to everyone.
Can you arrange the car and permits? Yes, both. Sikkim permits for Indian nationals are straightforward and we handle them.
What if I do not know where to go? Tell us when you are travelling, how many of you, and how long a drive you can tolerate. We will suggest two or three options and explain the trade offs. That conversation takes five minutes and saves a bad trip.
Where to start
If you have read this far and are still deciding, the shortest route to an answer is to tell us three things: your dates, how many of you, and whether anyone in the group struggles with long drives or cold.
We will come back with two or three specific places, what they cost on your dates, and an honest note on what each one gets wrong as well as right.
Browse everything in the North Bengal hills, or call us on 9163428385. We answer between 10am and 10pm.
Not sure which one fits?
Tell us roughly when you are going and how many of you. We will send two or three specific options with real prices, and say what is wrong with each.
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